There are a couple of things me and the old man ritualize on Paradigm Mall Friday’s. At least we used to when I was living here in Petaling Jaya in my young adult years. We would go out of the way seeking regularity in what we eat. On the contrary, many places have folded post-pandemic. A Vietnamese restaurant is not something we go out of the way to find. Back in the day there hadn’t been a Vietnamese restaurant near me. But Kelana Jaya has since mushroomed.
Vietnamese Pho
In the early 2000’s, I traveled throughout Vietnam indulging in their many foods. One thing I can remember is that freshness is prime. The herbs were so fresh you could literally taste gardens in your mouth. One such example is Pho. A Vietnamese beef noodle soup with crunchy bean sprouts and an incredibly intense broth.
Later on, as new restaurants started popping up and shutting down in Paradigm Mall, one very interesting Vietnamese concept restaurant caught my eye – An Viet. As I was strolling by, memories of the Vietnamese countryside came rushing back to the present and all the other turmoils experienced (a story for another Vietnamese food post).
The bowl of Pho (at that time) was outstanding, a recollection of the garden fresh herbs was prominent, however, an element of authenticity was still evasive. I remember getting a bowl of Pho which included parts of the cow that weren’t really my cup of Vietnamese coffee ya dig (cow tongue, tripe etc.) Apart from that, the broth was outstanding.
An Viet – Vietnamese Lemongrass Chicken (The History)
So at some point down the line, after the old man was tired of your usual Malaysian affairs, i.e., Nasi Lemak and Curried Pasta, the grilled lemongrass chicken with rice (Gà Nướng Xả Ớt) and the grilled pork chop with rice (Sườn Nướng) sets at An Viet looked quite appealing, elegantly catered toward Malaysian tastebuds. Beholden to the old man’s picky taste buds, he too accepted the offer to check this Vietnamese joint out. Portions were excellent. The meats grilled to perfection with a perfect balance of char. The years of 2017 to 2018 were quite different for diners.
Fast forward to 2023. I have been back for a month and me and the old man are bonding again, developing new Friday Paradigm Mall rituals. We were casually walking by, and I passingly mentioned trying the grilled lemon grass chicken again. He was down and I was game.
Yet, something didn’t sit right with the whole experience. There was something in the air that suggested a lack of quality, comparing it to five years ago. The enthusiasm that shone from the employees in its initial years faded with the economical challenges of the past two. And still, me and dad, were too fighting to relive the bond we had pre-pandemic. This was one way to do it so I thought.
We went with the classic order that we used to get in the prime years – Vietnamese grilled chicken with rice. What is different now is that it comes with a set for RM23 approx. It includes a bunch of goodies like a clam soup, fried dumplings and Vietnamese rice paper rolls.
Grilled Vietnamese Lemongrass Chicken with Rice Video
Furthermore, the portion of the chicken itself has shrunk and instead of serving me and my dad as a historical ritual, it reminded us more of the troubles that the world has endured in the past two years. It is truly funny how food can emphasize conflict, just as intensely as it brings back memories of the past.
On the contrary, all of this makes for still a quite pretty video. Likewise, the presentation of the whole meal was exceptional. The thought of using a wooden tray added to the rustic atmosphere that complements the taste of the chicken itself. The egg was yolky enough, but, I felt the rice to be a little overcooked. Sticky and clumped together. Due to the smaller size of the chicken, there was a bit more char on the outside to match the interior doneness.
Anyhow, all of this adds to the experience of quite a simple dish, fulfilling a promise to tell the story of a forlorn era. And thus far, how the human struggle continues, illustrating our resilience and a quest to survive.
